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Full text of "Arduino"

Sun Logger 



MakejProjects 



build, hack, tweak, share, discover. 



Sun Logger 

Written By: Steve Hobley 



TOOLS: 



1/16" drill bit (1) 

Any kind of Power Drill, Drill press, or 
Dremel (1) 

Hot glue gun (1) 

Phillips head screwdriver (1) 

• Soldering iron (1) 

Wire cutter/stripper (1) 



PARTS: 



SD memory card (1) 

Level Shifter 74AHC1 25 (1) 

3.3V power regulator (1) 

8- AA Battery Holder (1) 
from RadioShack. 



Perf board (1) 
from RadioShack. 

Enclosure 6"x3"x2"(1) 
from RadioShack. 

100uF capacitor (1) 
from RadioShack. 

Jumper wire kit (1) 
from RadioShack. 

USB cabled) 
from RadioShack. 

Battery clip (1) 
from RadioShack. 

Batteries. AA (8) 
from RadioShack. 



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100k resistor 1/4W(1) 
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Pagel of 13 



Sun Logger 

from RadioShack. 

1x40 pin headers .1" spacing (1) 

Arduino UNO from RadioShack. (1) 

SD card socket (1) 

Photoresistor selection (1) 
from RadioShack. 

10kQ resistor (1) 
from RadioShack. 



SUMMARY 

A data logger is a device that is left to run for long periods of time, making regular 
measurements of external sensors. 

We'll be using the Arduino microcontroller and a homemade "shield" (an Arduino accessory 
board) to create a device that gathers data on light-brightness in an area and how it changes 
over time. 



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Sun Logger 



Step 1 — Gather the parts. 



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• Arduino UNO, Printed Circuit Board (RS# 276-158), 10KQ resistor 1/4W, IC: 74AHC125, 
pin headers, SD card socket (see main parts list), 9v battery and clip. Hookup wire (3 
colors). 

• You'll also need a 3.3v regulator. Be sure to check the pinout as they can vary between 
brands and packages. 

• I cut the pins down into 4 pieces; 1 of 6 pins, 2 of 8 pins, and 1 of 10 pins. (If you have an 
older Uno, you can trim the 10 pin header down to 8 to fit.) I inserted these into the 
Arduino, as in the third photo. It is important to start with the pins like this, as it allows you 
to align the protoboard with the slightly off-grid spacing of the Arduino headers. 

• Note that the first photo shows a couple of extra capacitors and LEDs that are 
optional. 



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Sun Logger 



Step 2 — Adding the pins. 




• I then placed the perfboard on top of the pins, and marked where I wanted to trim down the 
board. 



• Trimming the board is optional if you have a large enough enclosure. 

• Once the board was cut down, I soldered the pins into place. 



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Step 3 — Adding a 9V battery. 




• I'm going to use an external battery to power the logger, so I hooked up a 9V snap 
connector to the Vin and Gnd pins on the Arduino board. 

• You can see the connection points on the Arduino picture; pass the wires through from the 
back of the board and solder them on to the front. 



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Sun Logger 



Step 4 — Adding 3.3V power for the SD card. 




• The SD Card works on 3.3V power. Although the Arduino provides a regulated 3.3V pin, it 
is better for the data logging circuit to have its own supply. In this step we'll connect a 3.3V 
regulator to the 5V pin. 

• In the second image, the ground is on the left, the 5V input is the middle lead, and the 3.3V 
output is on the right. 

• I hooked this up to the 5V and Gnd pins on the Arduino, and extended the ground using 
some stripped hookup wire. 

• I finally added another piece of pre-stripped wire to the 3.3V output of the regulator. 

• If you check the output of the regulator unloaded, don't be surprised if you read 
slightly lower than 3.3V. Once you add a load (the chip and card socket) this will 
return to a steady 3.3V. 

• Finally, put the 10uF capacitor on the output of the regulator, with the positive lead 
connected to the output and the negative lead connected to ground. 



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Sun Logger 



Step 5 — Adding the SD card socket. 




• We are going to wire up the card socket using the lower 8 pins in the photo (evenly 
spaced). 

• The upper three pins are used for detecting if a card is inserted; we will not be using these. 

• Place the card socket on the perf board so that only one pin touches each square of 
copper. 

• Hold the socket down with tape and solder the ground connections first, before attempting 
the pins (see the third photo). 



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Sun Logger 



Step 6 — Wiring the 74AHC125 chip. 




• Rather than give a step by step account of each wire, it's probably easier to supply a 
diagram and let you run the wire connections from that. Use stripped hookup wire as 
shown in the second photo. 

• Communication from Arduino pins 10,11,12 & 13 are passed through the 74AHC125 level 
shifter chip and out to the card socket (at 3.3V). This will protect the SD Card from being 
damaged by the Arduino's 5V logic levels. 

• You will need to run a 10KQ resistor (brown, black, orange, gold) from +5V to pin 9 
onthe74AHC125chip. 

• Pin 12 is connected to the card socket directly. Even though the HIGH signal is only 3.3V 
this is still enough to register as HIGH to the 5V Arduino. 

• The only problem I had was with faulty solder joints. Be sure that your soldering is 
good before moving on to the next connection. Test each connection end-to-end 
with a multimeter if necessary. 



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Sun Logger 



Step 7 — Adding the sensor. 




• I had a selection of light dependent resistors (LDR) available. Testing with a multimeter, I 
found a 100KQ LDR that gave a range of 100KQ in darkness down to about 50Q in bright 
light. I wired this in series with a 100KQ fixed resistor to create a voltage divider circuit. 

• Here's how a voltage divider (second image) works: if the LDR is in bright light, the 
resistance in very low on the bottom half of the circuit, pulling the pin down to ground. In 
darkness the voltage at the pin would be 2.5V since there is an equal drop across both 
resistors. The readings will range from to 512. 

• I've drilled 2 small holes in the lid of the enclosure, passed the LDR legs through, and 
wired in the resistor. The white wire goes to Gnd, the red goes to +5V, and the yellow wire 
goes to AO on the Arduino. 



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Page 8 of 13 



Sun Logger 



Step 8 — Adding a battery pack. 









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• Initially, I tested the logger with a single 9V battery, but run-life was only about 24 hours. 
Instead, I opted for a much bigger battery pack. This one is 12V total but still uses the 
standard 9V style connection pins. 

• After an initial run, it occurred to me that wiring two 4 AA battery packs together in 
parallel would be much more efficient than the single 8 battery pack. It might 

actually be possible to hack the 8 battery pack I have to deliver 6V with twice the current. 

• I attached the Arduino and shield to the lid using some hot glue. You might want to make 
this more permanent using bolts. 



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Sun Logger 



Step 9 — Programming and logging. 










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• First, program the Arduino with the logging sketch. You can download the sketch at 
GitHub. You will also need the Arduino Time library . Follow the instructions there for 
installing the library. 

• Put the SD card in the socket, and connect the battery pack. At this point the Arduino will 
start to run, initialize the SD card, then wait to be initialized. 

• We'll just use the Arduino Serial monitor to communicate with the data logger. The Arduino 
is now waiting for the the letter T to be transmitted via the serial connection, followed by 
the current time stamp to start with (see second image). 

• The timestamp needs to be in Unix epoch time format; use this online converter to get the 
current epoch time. Type T, then the time in the serial monitor, then return to send the 
characters to the Arduino. The logger will be off and running, taking a sample every 15 
seconds and sending it back over the serial monitor (see third picture). The values will 
also be written to the SD card. 

• To install in the field, remove the USB cable, close up the enclosure, and leave it in the 
place where you want to log light levels. Make sure the light dependent resistor is exposed 
to the light and not covered up! 



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Sun Logger 



Step 10 — Visualizing the data. 

















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• Having collected the data, the next task is to get it into some kind of usable form. 

• The output is a comma-separated list of date, time, and sensor data. You can load it into 
Excel and get a graph quite quickly, but you'll notice that it doesn't handle the dates very 
well, and that the data is upside down; extreme sunlight gives resistance in our sensor, 
and a reading of 0. 

• What I find interesting about the results are the nighttime readings. It shows the effect of 
the neighbor's security lighting throughout the hours of darkness. 



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Page 11 of 13 



Sun Logger 



Step 11 — Improvements 



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• This is very much a bare bones 
data logger, and would benefit from 
a few improvements. 

• Add a Real Time Clock chip: 
Setting the time from the host PC 
each time you do a run is OK, but it 
would be better to have the 
electronics handle the time data all 
by itself. There are a couple of 
options for this described in the 
Arduino Playground: 

• Realtime clock DS1307 

• Realtime clock DS1306 

• Wire up the 6 analog outputs to 
sockets and create a range of 
sensor types (light, temp, current 
flow, water flow etc..) 

• Here is a neat webpage that shows 
how to build a variety of analog 
sensors (via Arduino Playground) 

• Power consumption: lowering the 
sample rate (once per 5 minutes 
for example) and inserting a 
switching regulator between the 
12V pack and Arduino would be 
more efficient. (A cheaper 
alternative would be to wire two 4 
AA battery holders in parallel). 



In this guide we added persistent storage to an Arduino and turned it into a data logging tool. 
There are a great many different sensors available (light, heat, sound, motion), so what you log 



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Page 12 of 13 



Sun Logger 

is limited only by your imagination. 

If you build a Sun Logger (or any other type of data logger), we'd love to hear about it and how it 
was useful to you in the comments below. 

This document was last generated on 2012-10-31 02:04:42 PM. 



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